Climate Control randomly turning on and off every five seconds

Good morning, my climate controls are shutting on and off and this turns the compressor on and off randomly. if you try to select a different screen it reverts right back to the climate control screen like its in a loop. I replaced the A/C pressure switch w no change due to Forscan showed it was low voltage but I believe it was due to running the battery down with out hooking up a charger which I wasn’t aware of running Forscan as it will discharge your battery instantly. I posted to other forums w no solution. I have narrowed it down to a failing APIM but wanted a second opinion. They are expensive to replace. I drive a 2016 Mustang GT premium and it has the Sync update limitation to 3.0.

FORScan does not discharge your battery, having the ignition on for long periods of time can. If you battery is discharging far enough to get a warning on the vehicle or FORScan then you should have it checked or replaced, as they should last an hour or so without issues.

Have you looked at the DTC’s in FORScan? What are they if there are DTC’s listed?
Have you run the Interrogator Utility to check the health of your APIM?

Watching the video looks as if the FCIM is turning on and off, like there is a power issue or the FCIM is failing. What you are seeing in Sync is the status echoing from the FCIM. You need to look for DTC’s concerning the FCIM and DTC’s indicating low voltage conditions.

Hi yes I had the battery checked and recharged at Autozone tested good, but it is a 2/21 MotorCraft and I live in florida. But after they charged it up, the car starts normal. As far as the DTC codes I got none but I did notice the last time I ran Forscan it did show the APIM had a DTC but not sure what it was due to me running the DTC module in Forscan and it found no codes. So I am a bit stuck in what to do to solve this issue. Thank you for responding. Rich

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Exactly. The battery is 4 years old, could be the start of going bad. If you have any more issues like that, replace the battery. Low voltage conditions in these newer cars with more complex systems can cause damage.

The A/C cycling has not remedied itself and I am unable to drive the car due to the compressor cycling on and off. I don’t think it is the battery due to the fact that until I hooked up Forscan I have had no issues w the battery. I have done a master reset, I reset FCIM ran Forscan with all the DCT’s reset the APIM and reset all adaptations with no changes.

What AB changes did you make to the APIM, FCIM or the HVAC module with Forscan? Have you tried reverting them back to OEM?

Replacing a pressure switch has absolutely zero to do with the APIM or Forscan.

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I made no changes to the APIM just did a reset and an adaptation reset. I got a low power error code related to the dct tests during the initial Forscan which I think was triggered by a low battery voltage issue. I just need to know if the APIM is causing the issue seen in the video. I’ve done just basic troubleshooting. I have sourced an updated APIM but will it resolve the issue. I cannot drive the car like this. Thanks

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You could just disconnect the APIM to test. You will get some DTC’s doing this but it will prove if it’s the APIM causing the issue. The way it looked in the video that the FCIM is power cycling causing the problem. Or something is causing the FCIM to power cycle, which the APIM would not do. Let us know how the APIM swap figures out.

Good morning Chief, I disconnected the APIM no change, I disconnected the main large connector on the FCIM no change. I have not disconnected the smaller harness due due to the way it is oriented and I cannot get my hand in the right position to take it out. Me leaving my hood open was causing the battery drain so silly for that to happen. I have the dash torn apart and will need to slide my console back to get the FCIM out due to it has tabs and a plastic tray that wont let it come out. If I try any harder I will break it. So next step If I can remove the small connector the FCIM and test if no change then I have no idea what would be causing this issue. I hate to take this to the dealer, $500 plus repair. I am not updating any other forums due to no one knows what this issue is. AI bots state its the FCIM. So if anyone knows what to look for or a person who is an expert I sure would like to hear from them. Thanks, Rich

Working on these things is difficult with the plastic pieces for sure. At least we can say it is not the APIM. @jmbach might have some pointers on the disassembly as he has a 2015 Mustang he modified.

The hardest part I had was removing the USB connector as the tabs above and below the connector need to be spread out slightly to release it. The 12v power connector was difficult as it had tape all over it. The small connector on the FCIM, if I remember, has a small tab on the bottom of the connector to depress and it removed very easily.

The center console does not have to be completely removed but does have to be disengaged in order to get the plastic tray out cleanly. Use trim removal tools help. After removing the screws from the center console, i used a trim tool and started from the back inside the center storage compartment and released the tabs there. Then gently pried my way to the front. I would place the gear shifter in neutral when doing this as you will have to pull the console away from the front once all the side tabs are released.

Thank you JM, yes the plastic piece is blocking the radio from coming out, so I will take apart the console and disengage it so I can remove the radio face for t/s this weird ac issue that no one has seen before. Rich

Ok so I got the console out disconnected the power connector to the FCIM and no more cycling. So it appears to be the FCIM causing the issue or am I missing something? If not I will order one. Will a much newer FCIM work in my car like a 2020 or something or shall I stick to the same gen for this part? its a Mustang so you guys may or may not know this and I am not updating this post anywhere else. Thanks, Rich

A 2016 Mustang is CGEA 1.3 architecture, so 2016 thru like a 2020 will work, but be aware that there may be added features on the FCIM that your 2016 may not support. I am more familiar with the F-150’s, but I installed a 2019 FCIM on my 2015 F-150 with no issues. You must source an FCIM with at least the features you have on yours, or you may end up with something not working.

Find the part number of the FCIM, should be a tag on the back, and post it here. We can help with finding a replacement. Post a pic also of the FCIM.

Something you could try is reloading the FCIM asbuilt with FORScan. Once reloaded, reboot the unit and see if it still power cycles. But with the FCIM resetting that quickly you probably can’t keep a connection long enough to do it.

I have seen this action before with an FCIM. It was years ago and I am trying to remember how I fixed it. Was a Ford Flex though and they are CGEA 1.2 and I think it was a module reboot with Forscan.

You may even try disassembling the FCIM and look at the climate control PCB for the power button. It could be getting stuck and just needs to be cycled.

I have taken apart FCIM’s and found coffee and Coke (cola) in the buttons. Really messes things up. I just use Windex to clean them, dries with no residue. Dab it on with a Q-Tip.

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Thanks guys I updated to 3.4 from ver 3 no change. The way I did it was I turned the car on accessory unplugged the FCIM and then the APIM was stable and proceeded to upgrade to 3.4. It worked but getting the USB error. I have a newer single port hub w the proper adapter on order. I have found several FCIMs some on eBay which I have an offer in one now and also Salvage yards plus Midway Mustang has a 2015 in great condition My line of thinking is to get a newer build so I can avoid this happening in the future. I will take it out, take it apart and clean it. I will re run Forscan. What are the odds it’s the FCIM and not the harness or something down the line like the HVAC blower motor. I am much closer to getting this resolved without a huge out of pocket dealer intervention and for that I’m grateful.The part number of the FCIM I currently have is (P) FR3T-18245-GC. Rich

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Most likely the FCIM unless there has been a lot of work done on the car console or FCIM area. Let us know how it goes…

Try the other USB port.

Usually the one in the console is the master…

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