I would just copy the text from the Ford website into notepad and use that to program the APIM asbuilt.
I wish I could but the Ford site (at least the one that I was connected to) requires the info to be downloaded, which would be fine if there were a program available to open the file. This is what you get:
(attachments)
1FH5K7FH9HGB05463.ab (454 Bytes)
Change the .ab extension to XML and drop it into a browser. It’s actually formatted for XML.
There is nothing in the attached .AB file. Did you enter the right VIN? It does not appear to be valid. It does not decode at Ford Service.
The help is sincerely appreciated.
I do have the spreadsheet with all the codes so I can go line by line and should be able to identify things that his is not equipped for. At least I think I can..
Again, the help is greatly appreciated.
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Verify the VIN…
I’ll give that a shot… The VIN was probably shortened when I copied the download information but it did register with ford .
actuall changing the file to xml did allow it to open however it is not useable information, at least from my perspective. This is what comes up.
That’s why I asked about the VIN.
Ok, bear with me since I’m obviously technologically challenged. I found a program called AsBuiltExplorer that supposedly opens the Ford ab file extension…… and it did. Below are the results for a 2017 Explorer Limited ( the 2014 is also a limited). This looks like the formatting I see in Forscan. Are there changes that I would need to make to these codes to use in the 2014 in your opinion?
That is a Sync 2 asbuilt. Which is yours? That is not a Sync 3 asbuilt which is what you need to find. Having a GPSM present tells me this is an older vehicle.
Just hang on I will get a pic of my AB.
Here is my AB for my 2015 which is for the most part identical to a 2014. Don’t worry about the 8 & 9 Blocks. They will not work in a CGEA 1.2 vehicle.
I am running the Sony system with heated steering wheel and HVAC seats so you will want to keep those settings in mind. I believe you have a Limited so these should carry over.
you are correct, evidently its a “stock” download for an older Taurus.
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Awesome, much appreciated. I’ll go through this tomorrow..Sorrry for the late reply, I was cut off for exceeding the daily limit for a new poster
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And?
I just tonight went through the spreadsheets and the info you sent, there were a few changes I made based on equipment and I’ll be loading everything tomorrow. Hopefully it all works. My son is out of town through the weekend so I’ll have a few days to verify.
Honestly I’m surprised some of the stuff worked based on the entries currently in his system but I’m not surprised that it could be the cause of the battery drain because I can see how certain things wouldn’t shut down.
I will report back on the outcome.
Don’t know anything about mini-coopers do you? I’ve also been ripping the rest of my hair out trying to figure out why it has no communication whatsoever with the transmission module. And it too has a parasitic drain….
I have heard they are fun to drive and I have heard from Firefighters they are pretty much a fatal waiting to happen.
Curious what equipment changes you had to make.
I’d agree to both and if the fatality doesn’t come from a driving accident it would been the form of a stroke from working on one. Seriously some of the most “WTF were they thinking”, assemblies I’ve ever ever worked on.
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“Curious what equipment changes you had to make”
For one, changing the alternator involves pulling off the entire bumper and core support assembly and if you are careful you can squeeze it out by holding one side of the radiator, condenser, and trans cooler out, otherwise if you remove the rad the process of refilling coolant involves multiple bleed acres to get all the air out, they have a grounding system that essentially pulls multiple ground wires into a configuration that look like an old comb then putting a screw through it to the chassis, after time the comb strands corrode or break off. These combs are also strategically placed in several areas that hold water, the automatic trans floor shift has an unsealed pc board type assembly that sits directly below the cup holders, several of the modules are located in footwell locations that have water dripping on them / collecting around them causing corrosion on the pins, and their OBD link gives basic information unless you buy a scanner that will read the two additional bus networks that BMW uses (K and D), all modules are VIN locked so while you can change some of the minor ones to correct some conditions they lock out other functions. The BCM for example controls remote locks windows etc. change it and everything except locks will work. The average schmuck can’t program the VIN into the module and Mini / BMW doesn’t make replacements for older ones and the uppity dealerships don’t want to program a used piece, and if you can find one that will they want to charge a diagnostic fee plus a one hour minimum charge…….I could go on and on.
Back to my Explorer project. I will post a screenshot of the blocks as I programmed them using the spreadsheet as a guide later today, for whatever reason it won’t load from my phone. Everything appears to be working, won’t know for sure on the parasitic draw as it usually took 2-3 days to get to a no crank condition. If you see something wonky please let me know which block it would be and what you would suggest.
Again I appreciate the help and
Here is the screenshot I mentioned earlier. If you spot anything of concern please let me know. Thanks again,
Check that your telematics controller isn’t trying to connect via 3g. That’s been a issue I’ve seen on some MKX’s 17’s and early 18’s. Trying to connect to the Ford Connect or Lincoln way via 3g, and 3g is gone in the US. Fazed out few years ago. There is a few articles I here showing how to upgrade to 4g. Just a thought. Use Forscan and look for telematics controller and see.
Might help