2018 FPIU Non-sync to SYNC 3 retrofit

Hello,
attempting to do a SYNC 3 retrofit on my new-to-me 2018 Ford Police Interceptor Utility (USA). Already done a bunch of research, would like some confirmation that my understanding of things is correct.

Currently, my vehicle has a 4-inch FCDIM that doesn’t display anything (more on that later), a basic AM/FM/CD ACM, no APIM, and steering wheel media controls.

Current module models, calibrations, and strategies (from FORScan):
BCM: JU5T-14B476-FAF, JU5T-14B476-FAF, JU5T-14C184-AAE
FCDIM: HB5T-18B955-CB, HB5T-18B955-CB, E1GT-14D358-CL
FCIMB: GB5T-18A802-BD, GB5T-18A802-BD, GB5T-14D017-AD
ACM: JB5T-19C107-AB, JB5T-19C107-AB, HB5T-14D099-AB
HVAC: JB5T-19980-GA, JB5T-19980-GA, JB5T-14C178-GA

Current DTCs: ACM: U3000:42 General memory failure.

The FCDIM does appear in FORScan, and there are no codes for it. The backlight does illuminate, but nothing ever appears on the screen.
The ACM works to play radio stations via the FCIM or SWCs.

I want to retrofit SYNC 3, add HD Radio and SiriusXM, and add auto climate controls. I saw the thread on SYNC 4 retrofits, but I don’t think that’s worth the trouble.

Here are the parts I’m planning to go with, please confirm that these should work:
FCIM: GB5T-18A802-ED from an 2018 Explorer (planning to add parking aid sensors later)
APIM: 3U5T-14G371-DEE, plus an 8 inch screen
ACM: I have two available: JB5T-19C07-CB from an 18 Explorer or KB5T-18D32-CA (no CD) from a 19 Explorer Limited
HVAC: HB5T-19980-AB from an 18 Explorer
USB Hub, Hub bracket, USB Cable, Ford Satellite Antenna Splitter Cable for SDARS/GPS, APIM Brackets
Then I’ll need to use a custom wiring harness

The FCDIM harness appears to be a good source for power, HS3-CAN/ICAN, and the rear-view camera feed. Then, I’ll need to connect to the ACM for media audio, alert audio, SDARS data, and maybe multimedia data. Next, splice the USB hub power and microphone. Despite being non-SYNC, my car DOES have a mic and the wiring for it in the ceiling harness, which goes as far as C211 in the driver’s footwell.
CAN: There appears to be HS3-CAN/ICAN available at the FCDIM, which should work for the APIM. Do I also need HS1-CAN, and if so where do I get that?
Per my understanding of the wiring diagrams, the FCIM communicates via CAN on this vehicle, not LIN. Also, there is no HS4-CAN.

Install: I know I’ll need to reference my existing as-built backups, the as-builts of the donor parts, and the Cyanlabs database to build my own hybrid config. Any gotchas I should be aware of?

You can add the controls, but it will not work in true auto. The FPIU’s are missing the hardware for this. You would have to replace the HVAC unit.

Both @RD4154 and I have converted our PIU’s. I have a 2015 and he has a 2016 which is the same as a 2018.

Here is the 2018 APIM plug C2383

Yes, that’s why a replacement HVAC module is included in the parts list of my post.

I did an initial attempt at putting together a harness and installing everything, but the APIM didn’t show any signs of life at all. New ACM didn’t respond to FCIM or SWC either (even after programming it to turn off DSP/ANC and set up the right speaker config). I thought ACM swaps were supposed to be plug and play?
Fired up FORScan on a fresh profile. Didn’t detect an APIM at all. The ACM was detected (and I programmed it with a correct as-builts), however I had active DTCs from various other modules about lost communication with radio.
The ACM did have a DTC for the SDARS antenna I hadn’t plugged in yet, which is a good sign that the module is alive.

I assume I missed something on my harness. I’ll double check it against that pinout. I own the 2018 Ford Explorer/PIU wiring diagrams book, but it confusingly lists all of the different sync variants combined together which makes it hard to figure out what I need for my setup.

You need more than an HVAC module to make it work. It’s missing the door and the actuator in the HVAC unit itself. You can add the actuator and wiring but there is no door inside the unit.

For the Sirius you need a splitter like the one below and it will have the nav antenna connector. This goes along the bottom of the glove box opening. Thats really all you should need to get the Sirius and GPS antenna signals from the sharkfin.

Thanks for the note on HVAC parts, that’ll have to be a future project.
I did obtain the antenna splitter, just didn’t install it yet.

The splitter with an OEM antenna is a much better way to go. You will get better reception and less problems going that route.

Is anyone able to confirm the minimum requirements for a SYNC 3 APIM to turn on? Is it just power and HS3-CAN/ICAN, or are other things required? Do I need HS1-CAN? I want to make sure that my APIM will at least wake up and talk to the vehicle networks before I get into custom harness attempt #2.

Yes, it’s HS3.

In my experiences with this upgrade, as @bill32399 mentioned, i went the traditional route of buying a kit that had everything including the hvac module.

I had a few issues initially which was sourcing a ACM with sdars, got that figured out. Then adding the x40 upgrade which @F150Chief helped me a ton as well as @bill32399, i bought the jumper wire splitter from ebay that was mega simple its in the passenger side footwell nearest the door jamb.

Having a 2016 my shark fin antenna didnt have nav/xm capability so @bill32399 helped me swap it out to a newer one just in case you have that issue i have the correct part number for you.

Lastly i had an issue with the wire harness in which it didnt include 2 wires so i had to buy another from 4d tech which included all the wires between the apim and acm i just had to add the SDL wires to complete the x40 upgrade.

Also i see your using a 3U5T which is a J series itll work if its a late J series but try and use a K series youll have more flexibility…

I think some of those wires in the harness split off to other places and i agree the disgrams were spaghetti considering all the options. Id say your best bet is to buy one pre made.

Im not home presently, but once i do i think i have my profiles saved for my PIU it may help with some of the settings.

Youre also correct there is no HS4 and it doesnt use a lin bus however that CGEA 1.3 is awesome and you have the capability to add alot. Ive got a heated wheel and a TCU as well as auto headlamps

You should have the cabin temp sensor behind the ipc cover just to right of the steering wheel. So once you pop in the newer hvac theyll communicate. I could send you my hvac AB. For a bit of fun with the hvac you can get the covid cleaning option they added during the pandemic. Look up the video from ford its strange but fun lol helps if you live somewhere cold lol.

Thanks for the advice.
Mine did have the cabin temp/humidity sensor behind the lower right of the IPC, but the de-upfitters left it dangling and broken. I replaced it when I did my ignition.
I just swapped the FCIM and HVAC module, and haven’t touched their programming yet. Fans work in all the different modes but heat/cold doesn’t work. I would appreciate a copy of your as-builts.

No problem ill get them sent to you once i get a chance and more importantly back home lol.

Gotta love the de-upfitters, they left the rear speakers out and some other minor quirks but they did leave the rear tail light strobes, the hi beam flasher and the 2 blue/white lights in the headlamp assembly so i guess i owe them a thank you lol.

Ive seen the hvac not work properly after the upfitter goes in especially with adding the console and radios, mdt, etc they start cutting and dont care what. The car comes with tons of wiring left blank for them to use.

Fyi you can find the upfitter manual on line for free for our vehicles helps a ton with connectors and routing and where to find stuff as well as color codes. I have one saved on my google drive if you need it.

Also you can buy a used center console from a civilian xlt variant itll bolt right up youll just need to take out the metal plate in between the front seats super simple takes 2 minutes then the civilian concole bolts right up you might need to find i think 2 extra screws for the concole i just went to ford and bought them. I added a all terrain module to my concole and wired it in thx to @bill32399, i used LKQonline to find it. Youll appreciate the storage space, the look and THE CUPHOLDERS. You just gotta remove the shifter from the assembly again super simple i think they were torx screws and a silly harness you wont need. Itll have the ports for the dual usb assembly, and a 12v outlet. Youll have to do some wiring to get the 2 extra 12v outlets that come with the console assuming they werent removed. Just sacrifice one of the 12v you have preexisting on the dash already for power supply you can reuse the connector since theyre all the same. Also it has a light inside the usb compartment just wire it in with the 12v your adding its a negative control switch so when you click the door closed on the usb compartment it turns off.

Or you can do what I did and remove the column shifter and attach the center console shifter.

I actually like the column shifter, don’t feel the need to change it. I’m likely not going to put a civilian center console in there, because I do want to mount a few mobile radios. Whatever solution I go with also needs to have a few cupholders and some storage of course. Regardless, that’s a future project.

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The upfitters and de-upfitters did quite a job on my vehicle haha. Upon first appearances it looked decent, but once I looked deeper I found a lot of questionable and lazy stuff. They just cut the visible parts of their wiring and stuffed the excess behind panels. Guess what they used to wire up much of their lighting/siren and comms gear? Household in-wall telephone cable of course - the old tan cable with four solid red, yellow, green, and black wires inside. Then they used masking tape to secure it in place :rofl:. While they did make some use of the Ford upfitter harnesses, they also did a fair amount of hacking into wiring without much rhyme or reason. When putting things back together, they just shoved a lot of the trim in there with missing fasteners, broken clips, and disconnected stuff.
I have the upfitter guide, WSM, wiring diagrams book, etc readily available - I’m not hurting for literature at the moment.

I’m facing bizarre issues with my ACM, APIM, HVAC, and FCIM. While I previously thought my DIY harness was the issue, I can’t find a problem with it after further testing. Per other people’s experiences, the installs should be largely plug and play, with just a bit of as-built programming to correct features and update the VIN. To start, I wrote my existing as-builts to the ACMs and HVAC modules. Instead, they’re acting partially or totally non-functional. However, they do communicate via FORScan (except the APIM so far), with no DTCs.

After further research and investigation, I’ve concluded that there’s a communication problem going on. Using FORScan’s live parameter monitoring, I found that either new ACM always remains in an inactive state and powered off, because it believes that the key is out. Wake-up messages with ignition status details aren’t making their way from the BCM on HS1-CAN to the infotainment network HS3-CAN. That’s why my original FDIM wasn’t working, and it’s why the new stuff won’t come to life. Strangely, some other messages between those CANs appear to work - potentially exonerating the gateway module (though I’ll change that out anyway). Need to look at chimes in particular. FCIM(B) test with forscan live tables shows that all media and HVAC buttons are sensed as expected. Still have some further testing to do - try different combos of my various parts, revert BCM & IPC to factory as-builts and firmware, more live parameter testing on different modules, search for damaged wiring/connectors, etc. My resolution, though, will probably be replacing the BCM and/or GWM :sob:.

There is one suspicious active DTC:
U0184:87 on BCM: Lost Communication with Radio (ACM). BCM can’t tell the ACM & FDIM/APIM to wake up, and can’t route FCIM & SWC messages to them. In Ford vehicles, the infotainment modules are powered nearly all of the time, and lie in wait for the right messages from the BCM to switch from inactive to active. If those messages never arrive, the infotainment stuff will appear dead.
I read Ford GSB 19-7007 - SYNC 3 Intermittent Blank/Black Screen Diagnostics, went through all related WSM Pinpoint troubleshooting for that DTC, along with ACM no audio and FDIM/APIM no video. Referenced CAN charts in the WSM, along with troubleshooting procedures. Got all the way to the end, nothing much else to try except replacing the BCM and maybe the GWM.

No DTCs at all on new ACMs, either FCIM, old FDIM, or either HVAC, and can see & program all of those modules in FORScan. To me, that result means that those modules are likely good, getting power, the comms networks are up, and they are not the cause of the problem. No other DTCs, except for some other totally unrelated stuff with known causes (ie TPMS sensor issues, disconnected backup camera, etc). I’m not missing any modules in FORScan except for my new APIM (and always use a fresh FORScan profile to force a rescan).

The infotainment HS3-CAN network isn’t directly present at the OBD port - instead, messages to it have to be relayed by the GWM. Because I can talk to the modules on HS3-CAN with FORScan without issue, that means the GWM is able to talk to HS3 correctly.
Because I can talk to everything with FORScan and there aren’t any other codes beside U0184:87 on the BCM, all of the communication networks appear to be up and functioning just fine.

As far as HVAC is concerned: with the new HVAC module and FCIM, I have blower, blower dampers (direction/mode and recirc), various temp sensors, and rear window defrost while the engine is running. Heating and cooling does not work regardless of what buttons I press. Flashed old HVAC as-built with no change. No insights from the cyanlabs database - the limited bits look good. May need to swap the old module back in.
Like the infotainment stuff, a lack of correct key/run status info could explain why the HVAC module is only doing blower and not heat/cool. However, the live data shows the HVAC module is correctly getting key in/run status. The HVAC Module is connected via the MS-CAN network, and gets info from the BCM via the GWM. So maybe the BCM is fine, but the GWM isn’t correctly routing info to all networks?

Strangely, before I started messing with stuff, the original ACM did play the radio and the original HVAC was fully functional. I need to do more monitoring of parameters and functions with that original setup.

Grasping at straws here: is there some weird incompatibility? Anything else I should look for?
It’s not a blown fuse, I checked everything in both fuse boxes. They’re all present and working. The vehicle is not in transport mode, I made sure that’s disabled.

Updates:
Found out some interesting things.
First: Having an active FDIM/FCDIM or APIM talking on HS3-CAN is required for the radio to work at all. Even though my FDIM had a blank screen, it was still talking on the network to make the radio function. The radio works again after temporarily splicing the FDIM back in. Despite what the message routing info in the WSM says, it seems that the inputs from the FCIM/SCCM can’t make their way to the ACM without the intermediate step.
Second, I was able to get the heating/cooling (mostly?) working again with the new module by following the HVAC reset procedure shared in this thread on the Edge Forum. Basically, with the HVAC off: Hold power, then also hold defrost for a few seconds until you hear the actuators moving. Release both and then immediately touch either auto or power. Press any button except defrost to exit the test mode and retain DTCs. Keep the vehicle running for at least 30 seconds beyond that.
The reset wasn’t effective with the new FCIM, probably because it expected the auto button to be pressed but it wasn’t active. When I put the old FCIM back in, I was able to complete the reset by pressing power and then heat worked again though it seems weak.
Haven’t had the opportunity to try the APIM again yet, though I was not able to find any faults with my harness.

Just to confirm, these steps should be enough to get the APIM to wake up, right?

  • Flip the APIM present bits in the BCM, ACM, SCCM, HVAC
  • Connect APIM to power and HS3-CAN (while vehicle power is disconnected)

Would there be any other reason for the APIM to not show any signs of life in the car?