Hi, this was probably posted before but I can’t manage to fix my problem: I have a 2018 Fiesta with Sync 3 3.0 Build 17276, No nav. A year or so I started having issues with CarPlay (worked every other time then stopped completely), screen freezes for 15-20s when I connect a phone to charge, time gets shifted every time I turn of the car but is correct when I turn it back on, radio stations are all messed up (changing forward moves backwards but not on the station list, it somehow deselects it)… Resets don’t work at all, update via WiFi never worked in the past 6 years, whatever I tried with CyanLabs I just get the message the update paused because the USB was removed. I did manage to get another error when I created the autoinstall.lst file manually (found something on a forum) but it was the LST_ERR05 error, a missing file I think, but at least it seemed like the update started. When I fixed the files and plugged the USB in, nothing happens. Any ideas? I don’t care which version I’m on nor for new features, I just want CarPlay and for everything to work like it use to… Thanks and let me know if you need any info or photos! Thank you!
SYNC Region: EU
Navigation Variant: Non Nav
Manufacturer Year: Pre MY20
Install Type: OEM
Old SYNC Version: 3.0.17276
New SYNC Version: 3.0.17276
Do you have a error message, if so what is it?
Installation paused. The USB storage device has been changed or removed. Installation will resume when the device is re-inserted.
Installation failed. Error code: LST_ERR05 (but I think this was an error on my end)
A Kingston is not a bad drive brand.
Why aren’t you just using the download for your vehicle from the Ford site, the updater only supports a reformat to 3.3.x+ so what version are you trying to install?
The current version for your vehicle from Ford is 3.0.23219
Reformat the drive as exFat and don’t select the “quick” block as this will not deallocate bad blocks
Use the download from syncmyride.com for your VIN, if this won’t install there’s a good chance a reformat would brick the APIM
remove anything plugged into the other USB port, even if it’s just a charging cable
if the Ford download still doesn’t work, try the other USB port if you have one. Constantly plugging your cable in may have worn out the port.
During a Sync app upgrade, read is where its at not write.
I’ve never had problems with Kingston USBs and I go through a lot of them with the day job as we use those rather than Lexar/San Disk (we see those fail due to over heating on extended repeated reads).
I’ve formated the USB drive (exFAT), downloaded from syncmyride and copied it to the USB. I think I tried this exact process before but I will try again in the morning. How long before the update starts? Do I have to wait a few minutes after plugging it in?
If you are unsure if the unit is actually able to process any package, the best approach would be to create an interrogator log and try running that against the unit… If that fails, well, a proper package won’t work either…
The interrogator log also gave me the same Installation paused error (if I remember correctly, I did it a few days ago) but I will definitely try again.
Start the car, if you’re going to drive the car around during the update set your HVAC and radio before you start (if you touch these after the update is in process, the “Updating System Software” banner will go away for a bit even though the update is running.
Plug the USB in after you’ve finished backing out of the driveway/parking spot (if you have to). it should usually show the “Updating System Software” banner in 3-5 minutes after you plug it in.
You’re done when you get the message that you can unplug the USB.
Then I tend to think there’s something wrong with the APIM. A quick search for that specific build number returns issues with upgrading that were not solved by other than replacing the APIM:
Yeah, that’s what I read last year when I tried for the first time. I hoped I would be able to find more info this time and invest more time to make it work.
I plugged the USB in and left for 20 minutes and nothing happened (did it on both ports with no cables or bluetooth devices connected). I will try the interrogator thing again and if it doesn’t work I will probably have to change the APIM…
Based on the intermittent CarPlay issues I’d be looking at the USB port(s) to see if one of them is worn out.
With most people that have the fore/aft port setup the one inside the console is rarely used, the front gets all the wear from charge cables being plugged/unplugged, tugged on etc.
I disagree, still need extensive writing to put the files on the usb in the first place.
comparing brands is pointless, if I buy a $100 usb from SanDisk and a $20 from Kingston it would be pretty likely that the SanDisk will do better but if I’m comparing it to a $10 SanDisk the Kingston will probably be better
but it’s probably not the usb, it’s probably a faulty usb port or connection or apim
I doubt it’s the port. I only use the one in the console and rarely unplug it. At first Carplay got slower connecting and the display freezed but now it doesn’t work at all and charges the phone slower than before.